Needing to delete..

@Smokin08 I was referred over from Powerstroke Army to you, was looking for some advice. Been having regen related issues, its time to delete.
My buddy has a mini maxx on his '08 F350, I have a '10 F350. I was wanting to use his tuner to tune my truck, which I know will require a vin unlock. My question was, is it best to return his truck (which is fully deleted) back to stock, and then flash my truck? Obviously he wouldn't attempt to drive it or anything after we flashed it back to stock. Or should I just unplug it from his without reverting back to stock, plug it into mine, get a vin unlock & tune it and remove it again? I will then need another VIN unlock to marry it back to his truck, is that correct?

It is his tuner, I only want to tune mine to get rid of the emission components. Maybe I'm over thinking it all, lol, but I'm a bit nervous I will brick his or something stupid. Thanks in advance!


  • @GoFast
    If it were me, I would want a tuner that I could have at my disposal in case I needed to do anything to my truck. With that said, you can return his to stock, tune yours, unplug it and take it to his, load the VIN unlock and then tune his back. Now both trucks are tuned but your without a tuner should something need to be tweaked. When I say tweaked, I mean if you want to change the tune group, trans tuning, etc.

    On the 6.4 you can load the easy, mild, or HD300 tune groups. On the transmission you can load, S1 low, medium, or high, or the S2 low, medium, or high. The S1 locks the converter in 4th and 5th. The S2 only locks the torque converter in 5th.

    You don't want to load the easy tuning since it cycles the EGR valve. You will want to load the Mild or HD300. Then keep in mind there are 4 power settings in each tune group. You have Stock, Tow, Street, & Performance.

    So say you loaded the Mild with S1M (default for the trans tuning) and set it on stock power level. Then you decided you wanted to change to tow, performance, or whatever. You can't with out going back and doing the VIN unlock crap again. Say you wanted to adjust your tire size to correct your speedo...….. again same thing. You have to go thru the steps of returning his truck to stock, loading yours, make the changes, and then get another unlock code and load his again. Want to change the transmission strategies. Well, you get the idea.
  • @Smokin08

    Thanks for the quick response. I plan to sell the truck after I tune it, it hardly gets driven anymore. Just figured the delete would solve it once and for all, the cost of a VIN unlock and race pipe is less $ then the EGR throttle control sensor that needs to be replaced.

    Quick question on the S1/S2 tuning, I already know I want the TC to lock in 4th. I assume the high/medium settings would set the shift points to be harder? Also on the tuning, would the mild vs. HD tunes be different HP levels? Take example tow on mild setting, will that be a lower HP amount then an tow HD300 tune? Sorry for my curiosity, I have driven a few trucks with H&S but never owned one myself.
  • @GoFast
    Here are the tune groups & power level HP listed as stock, tow, street, & performance:
    1. Easy Power levels are: stock, 60hp, 120hp, and 175hp
    2. Mild Power levels are: stock, 80hp, 160hp, and 250hp
    3. Hot Damn 300 Power levels are: 50hp, 125hp, 225hp, 300hp

    On the trans tuning S1L will shift to 4th lockup at around 35 and 5th at 45, S1M will do 4th lockup at about 45 and 5th at 55, and S1H will do it at about 55 & 65. The S2L, M, & H will shift at the same speed just no lockup in 4th. There is no difference in line pressures to make it shift harder, just the actual shift point measured in speed.
  • Thanks @Smokin08 . I'm thinking either HD300 50 hp file or the Mild 80 hp. I'd be curious to know if you have a preference between the 2, i'm looking for clean as possible. Open to others chiming in as well. I have 35's so it could use some go, other then that the truck is stock. I do mixed city but typically highway driving, rarely do I tow.
  • @GoFast
    I will tell you that running HD300 on performance usually yields the best fuel mileage. I ran mine on that for about 10 years. Also the S1M trans tuning. Tried all but ended back up at the S1M. Keep in mind if you drive it like you stole it your going to have issues. I didn't baby my truck but I didn't abuse it either. I raced some, but liked the power when and if I wanted it. Didn't want to be needing it and it not be there. Know what I mean?

    I had to switch to an SCT X4 with custom tunes due to mods I had done so I no longer run the H&S tuning.

    When you load the H&S tuning you will be asked about LBF (low boost fueling). Leave that at default or 3. That helps you get moving from a dead stop. Your choices are 0 to 5. 0 will yield the best fuel mileage and 5 the worst. I could get about 18 on the HWY on flat ground. If it was hilly about 15. Averaged about 14 combo city/HWY.

    You will also want to get you some sort of cold air intake. With the tuner it is going to need more air. The stock one isn't going to support it. I have this one and still do:

  • @Smokin08 what settings (boost/coolant/LBF, etc) did you set when running HD300 tuning?
  • edited March 19
    Set your defuels to:
    Boost set at 48
    Cold coolant set at 160
    Hot coolant set at 220
    Engine oil temp set at 220
    Trans temp set at 220
    Pyro 1 set at 1450
    Pyro 2 set at OFF

    Oh and LBF I left at 3.
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